Force update_process_title=on in crash recovery?

Hi,

Based on a couple of independent reports from users with no idea how
to judge the progress of a system recovering from a crash, Christoph
and I wondered if we should override update_process_title for the
"recovering ..." message, at least until connections are allowed. We
already do that to set the initial titles.

Crash recovery is a rare case where important information is reported
through the process title that isn't readily available anywhere else,
since you can't log in. If you want to gauge progress on a system
that happened to crash with update_process_title set to off, your best
hope is probably to trace the process or spy on the files it has open,
to see which WAL segment it's accessing, but that's not very nice.